![]() ![]() Seems silly to spend all the time/money on an old car, get it running, and then cheap out on a $40-100 timing light or timing tape, especially considering how simple it is to check and adjust your timing once you have the figures. You can use other methods as well, but they're not as accurate and a few degrees one way or the other can make a noticeable difference if it's too advanced (surging at cruise, pinging at part throttle acceleration) or too retarded (sluggish throttle response at low speeds, higher operating temps, etc). Many stock setups may not have full advance until 4000-4500RPM though.Ī dialback light or timing tape are the way to go. Generally you want your timing all in around 3000RPM for a performance set up. I just rev it up until it no longer moves and then rev it even higher another couple times just to make sure there is nothing left. That may occur at 2500RPM or 5000RPM depending on how your distributor is set up. If you set the dial at 36 and then rev the engine high enough to the point where the TDC mark on the damper no longer moves, then you've reached your total timing. Rev the engine, and twist the dial until the timing mark lines up with the zero mark on the tab. I verified the readings with my old timing light and they lined up the same. Traditional dial-back lights used a simple dial on the back of the light. I got my dialback timing light from Harbor Freight as well, think it was $40 or $45. This is what I did before I had a timing tape (sticker) on my balencer. Measure that and mark it on your balencer and you have a nice 12 degree BTDC mark to work with. Original dial-back lights used a simple dial with a timing scale. These timing lights use electronics to delay the onset of the spark based on how much delay is dialed in on the light. Multiply that number by 12 degrees and you get the distance between the TCD mark and where your 12 degrees BTDC mark should go. The next level up from a basic timing light is what is called a dial-back light. take that number 18.something and divide it by 360 degrees and you get inches per degree. ![]() For example, if you have a 6" balencer, you multiply 6" times Pi (3.14) and you get 18.something. I never felt the need for fancy dial back timing lights.Įdit, you might have to calculate where 12 degrees BTDC is (or your preferred amount ) as a distance from the TDC mark. Then again, basic timing lights are pretty cheap. I learned to do it this way decades ago before I owned a timing light. It is recommended that you NOT use a digital or dial-back timing light when using an MSD CD ignition, that would include any 6 series, 7 series, MSD 8 or 10 ignition. You have to move the distributor very slowly and keep an eye on the test light in order to get the timing set correctly, but it can be done. Slowly rotate the distributor until the points open (test light goes ON) and then lock down the distributor. If for example, you want the timing set to 12 degrees BTDC, rotate the engine over by hand to until it is at 12 degrees BTDC, hook the test light across the points (coil negative and ground). You can set the timing with only a test light (light bulb and two wires).
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